Both suffer from the same tile-killing issue: movement. Wood moves and flexes with humidity and changes in temperature; concrete can move depending on humidity, moisture, soil movement, and temperature.
Remove any staples and drive down any screws or nails that are sticking up too far. Install a cement backer board to set a good base for your tile and prevent any movement-related cracking of tile or grout. Backer board is screwed down to wood subfloor using specific backer board screws and mortared down with tile adhesive mortar plywood subfloor.
Remember to tape and mortar the joints between the pieces of backer board. Crack prevention membrane is mortared down on both surfaces.
This membrane also acts as a waterproofing membrane and is a helpful addition in a wet area, a second floor, or a plywood subfloor application. A notched trowel is used to spread the mortar at a degree angle to the plywood subfloor. The recommended patch item varies based on the size of the crack to be filled. Use a floor scraper to remove any loose debris. For old adhesives or mortar, this may require some elbow grease and possibly a grinder to remove from the subfloor and allow the new mortar to bond.
Floor tiles can be installed directly onto a concrete subfloor. Whether wooden or concrete, make sure your subfloor is clean and free of debris. Laying out your tile pattern, planning for fixtures, cabinets, etc. There are many patterns to choose from, though some work better with specific tile shapes and sizes. Yes, that one. Determine your starting point in the room. Typically you will want full tiles in the most visible or focal points in the room, and cut tiles against cabinets or less visible walls in the room.
Measure your room to determine the center, and snap chalk lines on the floor to guide your installation. Every space is different, so take your time and plan accordingly. The goal is to get as many full field tiles down on the floor and leave the custom cuts for around obstacles, under appliances, and against the outside wall areas.
For most simple applications, floor tiles can be laid out in a grid pattern that starts at the center of the floor, so that cuts at the edges of the floor will be consistent at opposite walls. To achieve this, one method is to divide the floor into four quadrants that intersect in the middle of the room.
These quadrants should be square to each other, however, this may be an issue in older homes where the room itself is unlikely to be truly square. Don't rely on the wall positions to set up your grid, but rather square it yourself at the center. At times, centering a room is not necessarily the best layout for your floor tile application. You would start from the middle of the room if the space is a simple rectangle or square shape similar to the diagram above, and the only room being tiled.
Example, a wide-open square or rectangular room. This could be a dining room or an open bedroom. In a kitchen, you would not just center the room. You would lay your full tiles at the transition to the larger adjacent room, typically the living room.
Then the cut tiles would go against the walls and at cabinets. In a hall bathroom or laundry room, you would start with full tiles at the door and the longest straight wall in most cases.
This is the wall that the door swings in towards. In these areas, the entry and main walls are the focal point. In a master bath, you would typically start a full tile at the entrance door. This does depend on the layout of the room. Whether you decide to begin in the center or at a focal point, chalk guidelines are still a great first step, as they can ensure your final layout is straight and parallel. Practicing with a dry layout of your tile can help you determine what is the main focal point in the room, and the best place to begin.
That was a lot of information, right? Is your head spinning yet? Still want to tackle the tiling?! But fret not, the best is yet to come on your tiling project. Do not add mortar to these gaps. Lay the bubble level across multiple tiles to check for both level and to eliminate lippage from one tile to the next. Lightly tap the tiles with the rubber mallet to level them. For cutting only a few tiles, a rail tile cutter can inexpensively and effectively snap apart tiles. Place the uneven, snapped sides against the wall, where baseboards will cover them.
Buy or rent a wet tile saw for perfectly straight cuts. Use the tile nipper only for cutting around pipes, toilet bases, and for other non-linear cuts. Always wear safety glasses with any mode of tile cutting to protect your eyes against flying shards.
After removing the tile spacers, use the rubber float to press the grout into the tile seams. Work in small sections. Then, holding the float at a degree angle, firmly draw the long edge of the float across the tile seam. Move diagonally to avoid pulling grout out of the seam.
Deposit excess grout back in the grout bucket. After a section has cured for about an hour, follow up by soaking a sponge in clean water in a bucket and lightly wiping the grout lines in a circular motion to remove excess grout.
A milky-white grout haze will remain on the tile surface. Remove the grout haze after the tile has fully cured by first wiping it down with a sponge and clean water. Next, add 3 ounces of haze cleaner per gallon of water, or as directed by the product instructions, and soak the sponge in this solution.
Wipe down the tile surface with this solution until the haze has disappeared. Cured tile grout will soak up water if it is not properly sealed. Seal the tile grout either by applying sealer to individual grout lines with a brush applicator or by spraying down the entire tile surface and wiping off the excess from the tile faces.
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Select personalised ads. Apply market research to generate audience insights. Measure content performance. Develop and improve products. List of Partners vendors. Project Overview. Featured Video. Prepare the Substrate Ceramic tile is fragile on its own but gains strength when laid on top of a firm, inflexible surface free of gaps and ridges.
What Is Cement Board?
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