Wet basements come in many shapes, sizes, and constructions. Finding creative, customized solutions for the many unique challenges that basements offer is one thing that makes our dealers the best in the business. Our basement drainage systems are designed for basements of all types -- including those that include dirt walls, dirt floors, stone walls, and basements with large boulders located in the interior.
We also have solutions for basements and crawl spaces with very low ceilings, old utilities, and other obstacles. Along with solving your flooding issues, Basement Systems recommends also addressing all sources of moisture and humidity in your basement.
By installing a plastic vapor barrier on the walls and floors and installing an energy efficient, self-draining dehumidifier, your basement can be best protected from moisture levels that can encourage mold, rot, and mildew growth. This will lead to a healthier home environment, while avoiding potentially expensive home repairs in the future. Get a Free Estimate Your local Basement Systems Dealer has the training, experience, and award-winning products that can help you create dry, usable space -- even in a basement with dirt walls and floors!
To learn more about what we can do to help you, call or e-mail us today for a free basement waterproofing estimate! Each free estimates includes an on-site professional inspection and measurement, a personal consultation, and a copy of our full-color waterproofing book! Normally, our contractors would waterproof a basement by jackhammering the concrete floor, digging a trench and filling it with clean stone, and placing the drain on the stone.
A sump pump would be installed in the low spot on the floor. Then, the concrete floor would be restored. Waterproofing a basement with dirt walls and floors is very similar -- without the jackhammering.
We'll still install a drain and sump pump along the perimeter. However, we also very strongly recommend installing a plastic vapor barrier on the walls and floors, as moisture can easily pass through the dirt and create a humid space. A basement dehumidifier can be installed to further ensure a dry environment. These are the five steps our dealers recommend when waterproofing a dirt basement :.
While we ask that a dirt basement be cleared of stored items and furniture, many of our contractors do offer services related to cleaning the basement before waterproofing the space. In these cases, your installation crew will remove moldy insulation, debris, and other undesirable materials. The space will be made to look as good as possible before installing your sump pump and perimeter drain.
Cleaning out the basement is an important step to installing a vapor barrier in a continuous sheet on all dirt surfaces in your basement, which helps to create drier, healthier space. Many homeowners use the basement as a storage area, and things can easily fall into the water.
Many opt to build a closet around the area where the pump exists to prevent accidents. Mice often enter homes through pipes in this way, but they may just decide to make a nest in the pipe. Sump pumps need Weep Holes relief holes in order to prevent air locking the impeller chamber. This is important because it allows air to bleed out of the interior of the pump that would normally keep the next cycles from starting.
Because the bleach has been significantly diluted with water, solution that is not fully pumped out of the basin does not damage your sump pump. Sump pumps made of cast iron or thermoplastic are able to be safely cleaned using bleach. Can radon come from the sump pump or pit? Radon is a gas that enters your building from the soil beneath and around your house.
These gases can enter your home through the footing drain tile that is connected to the sump pump in your basement. Why does my sump pump smell like rotten eggs? An unpleasant, rotten egg smell is usually because your pit has dried out and sulfur dioxide smells are coming up from the sewer. It can be eliminated with a small layer of water in the pit and cleaning the drain pipes. The sump pit should be near a wall for easy installation of the drain pipe, but no closer than 8 inches.
By installing a sump pump and connecting it to your dehumidifier, basement humidity will be defeated. This means the machine can constantly run if need be, and keep basements dry and mildew free. Investing in a sump pump can save you a fortune on potential damages. Having a home that already comes with a sump pump is even better as buying one and installing it yourself can run a few hundred dollars.
Among the steps that a sump pump installation company may take in protecting your home from radon is to seal your sump pump. This will reduce radon exposure and be effective in a home with normal levels, but if the radon levels in your home are high, it may not be enough.
Common techniques include: Sub-slab depressurization , where suction pipes are inserted through the floor or concrete slab into the concrete slab below the home. A radon vent fan then draws out the radon gas and releases it into the air outside. This is the most common type of system.
Remember that even several inches of concrete cannot stop radon. Some builders believe that the plastic vapor barrier under the slab will stop radon. They may have entered through a drain or sump pump. These snakes are harmless.
But if you are not skilled with snakes, it is best to call a trapper or your local animal control for assistance.
Frogs in the basement usually mean you have a water issue. Frogs will mistakenly enter basements through sump pump pipes. Make sure the soil around your foundation slopes at least a couple of feet away from the house. If you've got pits that catch the water and force it downward, you might have problems getting water in your basement. Correct these issues before thinking about a sump. Determine if you've got a gravel foundation under your concrete floor. Most homes built in the last thirty years have foundations built upon a certain amount of gravel to correct for inconsistencies in the excavation process.
If you've got contact with the builder of the home, you should be able to figure this out, or ask neighbors with similar homes whether or not this is the case. Look to see if you have a good location for a sump. You'll want to place the sump near a wall in the basement, since the sump pump discharge will need to exit the basement and travel at least 10 feet 3. Look for a spot that will be easy to work in, and where you can punch a hole through a rim joist to reach outside.
Stay at least 8" away from the foundation wall, to avoid hitting any footings. Make sure you're not going to cut into the waterline. If the water enters your home through the wall, you'll be fine, but check the building codes in your area to make sure where the line will be if it comes in under the home.
Typically, the pipes will run from the street, 4—6 feet 1. Trace the outline of the sump liner on the floor. Leave a 3—4 inch 7. Part 2. Remove the concrete floor. This can be relatively quick work with an electric jackhammer, if you can rent one.
When you've got squares cut, move the jackhammer at an angle to pry up the pieces and remove them from the area. Alternatively, you can make do with a hammer drill rigged with a masonry bit, a good sledgehammer, and a masonry chisel.
Using the largest masonry drill bit you can chuck in the drill, begin making holes every few inches in the concrete along the outside perimeter, then use the hammer and chisel to crack the concrete between the holes. Continue drilling holes and hammering the concrete until you can remove it in chunks.
If your floor has reinforcing steel mesh installed in it, you may need a pair of heavy wire cutters or a metal grinder to cut it. Dig the sump hole.
You will want to dig the sump hole at least 12" deeper than the sump liner. Use 5 gallon Place, or replace, some coarse gravel in the bottom of the hole, so that the sump liner sits flush with the basement floor when placed in the hole.
This gravel will promote good drainage, and help water move into the sump where it can be pumped away instead of moving into your basement at another spot. It may be difficult to dig the sump if the soil is sandy and wet. If water infiltration is causing the hole to erode there are a few options. You can wait for the soil to dry, dig faster than the water enters or use a garden hose. For the garden hose method, you will need to place the sump liner in the started hole and fill it with water.
Then use a garden hose and push it under the liner. The water from the hose will push the sand out from under the liner and will stop the erosion. The weight of the liner will cause it to fall in the void underneath. As the liner drops into the ground you may have to wiggle the liner to keep it straight Depending on the liner used, you may have to drill numerous holes in the sump liner to allow water to enter so the pump can pump it away.
The drilled holes should be smaller in diameter than the size of gravel used so that gravel does not come through. Seat the liner in the hole. Place gravel around the sides of the sump liner, coming up to about 6" below the level of the floor. Concrete back over the floor. Mix your concrete , and pour a 6-inch layer of concrete over the gravel, filling in the floor up to the edge of the sump liner. Trowel the concrete to achieve a smooth surface.
After the concrete has set up reasonably well at least 8 hours , you may resume working on the sump. Part 3. Assemble the PVC piping from the sump pump outlet through your home's rim joist. Most pumps use 1. Leave a short stub of PVC pipe on the outside, you can attach a flexible hose to go the rest of the way. When assembling the piping, be sure to dry-fit the entire section before gluing anything. Work in a well ventilated space, to minimize exposure to the solvent fumes and complete the seals with caulking agent on both the inside and outside contact points.
The particular couplings will depend upon your house and foundation, which makes this a job for a fairly experienced DIY plumber. It's usually best to bore from the outside in, using a 2 inch 5. Install the pump. Place the pump in the liner, attach the final section of pipe, and plug your pump in.
The diameter of the drilled holes must be smaller than the size of the gravel used so that no gravel can enter the sump liner. Check the float position. Pumps come with different types of floats, but for any type it is important to ensure that the float on the pump is unobstructed so that it can rise and fall with the water level in the sump.
As water flows into the sump the float needs to be able to rise to a level that will activate the pump switch and fall back down without getting stuck between the pump and the sump liner wall. Usually it is a simple matter of just centering the pump in the sump liner, but it is best to double check your set up.
Install your check valve. Most check valves come with hose clamps and couplings, which feature directional arrows. Fix it appropriately on the riser and tighten it with a screwdriver. Plug in the pump and test your job. Fill a bucket with water and wet-test your rig.
Check the piping for leaks and make sure it empties outside like you want it to, and that your check valve functions correctly when you shut it off.
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